Category: Skye

Going home – 15 November 2024

Posted on by Zogman

It always comes to this. Hopefully we’ll come back again next year, all being well.

Breakfast, and then Murdo drove us to the bus stance in Portree. Lots of hugs and handshakes, then we got on a much newer bus and thankfully a different driver. Relieved, we settled down to wait for the wheels to start turning.

Three or four women boarded after us and they were a noisy lot. Maybe it was their first time out of the island. Scamp can tune noise out, I can’t. Thankfully I had good earbuds and another of the podcasts that Hazy had sent me the link for. ‘Ologies’ they are called on Spotify if you want to try them out. Every conceivable topic under the sun. Roughly 1hr 25min each. There, my advert’s done!

Irritating as the women and their little Indian friend were, they were nowhere near as irritating as the the VoiceOvers that came on the loudspeaker at random times.

Woman’s voice: Thank you for travelling with us

Man’s voice: The next stop is …

I kept hoping the man would actually tell us what the next stop was, but he never did. It was like the company had paid for the basic setup, but couldn’t afford the detailed info that would actually be helpful.

Apart from those nuisances, human and taped, the journey was fairly painless, especially compared to the journey from Fort William to Staffin with ‘Popeye’. Scamp found the seats really uncomfortable but a couple of Paracetamol made it easier to deal with. I just found it a bit annoying and a pain in the back.

We arrived in Glasgow exactly on time to the minute. Better still, we walked round the corner of the bus station and the X3 pulled up and opened its doors. That was very welcome. No silly messages and decent seats. The ‘ladies’ had left at Glasgow airport.

Pizza for dinner. Not the best. Nowhere near as good as Paesano, but it filled a wee space.

PoD was the view from the bedroom window in Staffin looking down the croft.

Tonight we’ll sleep in our own beds and tomorrow is another day.

Meeting Grian – 14 November 2024

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Just a wee baby but he’s the reason we are here in Skye.

After breakfast, Murdo drove us over to Jaki and Allan’s house to meet Grian. He’s now about five weeks old and Scamp just couldn’t keep her eyes off him. I’m more of the Kevin Bridges “How ye doin’ mate” camp. I find it hard to talk to babies, but I knew that Scamp would jump at the chance to hold him and have a cuddle. Grian, that is, not Kevin Bridges!

I’d brought my cameras, of course, and after taking a few photos of Grian with his mum, his dad and with ScampI, Allan (the dad) asked if I wanted to go a walk along the shore. I knew I’d only be a hinderance with all the baby talk going on, so I gathered my kit and caboodle and Allan and I walked halfway down to the shore. He went back to the house after giving me clear instruction that would get me on a circular path back to the house.

After falling on my backside twice I realised I really do need to get a new pair of boots. There is so little grip left on the heels and the sole is beginning to wear too, but for today, for scrambling they were great. Plenty of ankle support still. I walked over the seaweed and on to the sand before finding the sea washed pebbles and cobbles that formed the demarcation between the sand and the seaweed. I took a few cobble photos and remember Ailsa, a girl from Salsa, posting photos of those same stones in rock pools.

Unfortunately, the rain swept in and I was at the gate Allan had told me to take and then I was at the path I’d been told to follow back to the road and from there it was an easy walk to the house where Betty, the dog, interrogated me, wanting to know what I’d been doing out without her!

It was soon time to leave the house and Murdo arrived to take us all back for lunch, leaving Jaki, Grian and Allan, whose birthday was today, to some peace and quiet. How much peace there would be with Betty the excitable guard dog running around, I don’t know.

After lunch Murdo drove us up over Quiraing and on to Uig where we stopped for some snacks before dicing with death on the thousands of potholes that make the driving on Skye treacherous, especially on the north end.

Dinner was fish pie. It couldn’t be anything else on Skye. Jackie makes the best fish pie anywhere. It just beats Scamp’s and she would agree with me there.

We’re going back south tomorrow from our lightning visit to meet Grian. I had a great time, despite ‘Popeye’ and his antics. It was good to see that not much had changed in Staffin, or in Skye in general.

Time to pack tonight, but that shouldn’t take too long. Hope it’s a different bus … and a different driver!

On the road – 13 November 2024

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Out just before 9am to get a taxi to Buchanan Street bus station.

Showed our ticket and our bus pass to the bus driver and we were ready for the loooong journey north. Little did we know then just how long that journey would be.

Scamp demanded that I get the window seat on the bus, because I’d never had the luxury of being able to look out the window as someone else did the hard work and drove us all the way to Skye. I’d always been the one driving us to Skye since way back in 1987!! That was last century, you realise!! Anyway, I enjoyed the run out of Glasgow and up past Loch Lomond. We passed Glencoe and crossed the Ballachulish Bride over Loch Leven and on along the snaking road to our first official stopping point of Fort William. A half hour stop there, just enough time for a coffee and a cold panini each and we were on the bus again.

We’d changed drivers at Fort William and climbed up past Lochs Lochy, Garry and Loyne, then along Loch Cluanie where we stopped for a comfort break (ie, a fag break for some). We were now at the highest point on the journey and it was all downhill from there … literally. We drove past the ‘Biscuit Tin’ that is named Eileen Dolan Castle. Not nearly as old as it looks.We cruised along to Kyle of Lochalsh where the driver did another ‘comfort break’ stop. That felt like a stop too many. It was now gloaming, and as the sun sank behind the Skye hills I walked on to the slip and got a few photos of the Skye Bridge. When everyone got back on the bus the driver kept saying “Oh Dear!”, like the comedian he later turned out to be.

What happened was a warning light had appeared on his dashboard when he tried to start the engine. His solution was the same as every driver; he switched the engine off but immediately turned it back on again. Now, even I knew that he should have counted to ten first before restarting. It’s all about allowing capacitors and other electrical devices to discharge and give the engine a chance to have a clean restart. Not surprisingly the warning light was still there, but he drove off anyway, possibly with his fingers crossed. Maybe he thought he could drive the almost forty miles with a wounded bus.

After a short time he realised this was beyond his skill set and stopped to phone for a mechanic. Meanwhile about a dozen folk were complaining that they needed to get to Uig a further twenty odd miles from Portree to catch the ferry to Harris. He did manage to get the bus to a carpark in Broadford and arranged for a minibus to take them to the ferry port, so maybe I shouldn’t be so down on him.

However, two more breakdowns later we ended up halfway up a hill in total darkness, miles from anywhere (there are no streetlights between villages in Skye). Another call to a mechanic and then the driver started telling stories to the folk left on the bus and carrying on a repartee with a Canadian(?) teacher(?). I think they thought they were entertaining, but they obviously weren’t looking at the faces of the folk on the bus. We were all just fed up by then. Fed up and sore too.

Eventually, Scamp cut into his flow of consciousness and asked how long we’d need to sit in the dark, because we had people waiting for us in Portree. He disappeared for a while and came back with a message from the mechanic to say that we should be on the road again in 20mins.

As it turned out, the mechanic was as good as his word and on the way we dropped off one lady at a different ferry taking her to Raasay. Thankfully Jackie and Murdo were waiting for us. They’d even got a Chinese carry-out for us all! That was very welcome. Our advertised seven hour journey took Nine hours

When we described the driver to Murdo, he just said “Oh! ‘Popeye’, that ***** idiot of a man.” Expletives deleted.

PoD went to the photo I’d taken in the ‘Blue Hour’ looking out from the slip at Kyle.

Is it significant that today was the 13th? Lucky white heather!

Tomorrow we are hoping to meet Grian.

A late rise – 3 September 2022

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We must both have had a hard day yesterday. My excuse was that I’d been out cycling and Scamp’s was that she and the witches had been talking almost constantly for all of yesterday afternoon.

Once we’d dragged ourselves out of bed, dressed and completed today’s Wordle successfully, we discussed where to go and what to do with a very dull day. We settled on a run to Torwood, looking for something to buy for someone who has a birthday coming up soon. Unfortunately Torwood Garden Centre was having a bit of an Autumn Clean, which is really just a Spring Clean six months later. Lots of the garden furniture that usually lives outside was now inside and none of the usual stuff that Scamp expected to see had been put into storage, it seemed. For what must be the first time in our Torwood history, we left empty handed.

I suggested we try Calder’s in Cumbersheugh as an alternative, but although they had lots of things that “might do”, they didn’t have the exact article she was looking for. We were just about to leave when the heavens opened and the threatened heavy rain made us think again about walking out just then. Once the rain had eased, we ran to the car and drove home.

Later in the afternoon the sky cleared and although the sun didn’t shine, it was bright enough to take a camera for a walk in St Mo’s. The PoD went to a photo of a hoverfly on a Scabious flower, a wild scabious. While I was out, Scamp was talking to Jackie in Skye. She and Murdo are just recovering from the dreaded Covid and they both seemed to have it bad, but feeling better now.

On our walk earlier in the week, Alex and I had been discussing processing old photos taken years ago and tonight I worked on a photo of Castle Stalker in Appin from 2005. Taken with my old D70 it scrubbed up well as you can see here.

Tomorrow we may go looking for that birthday present again or we may leave that for a weekday when there will hopefully be fewer crowds

Elgol – 24 May 2022

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Today we finally made it to Elgol.

That strange place where the road leads to the sea and stops there. When the light is right and the Cuillins are lit by it it’s magical. Also when the light is poor, it’s mystical, seeing the mountains appear and disappear as the clouds break. Whatever the weather, you can turn your back on the crammed car parks, the pop-up coffee booths, the stalls selling trips out on RIBs to the islands and be somewhere else. Unfortunately there are masses of people arrive here, stop and say “Is that IT?” “Is this why we drove for miles and miles along a single track road in the rain, to see some mountains and some sea?” YES! “There’s not even a decent chip shop” NO! That’s part of its charm. Have I given you the impression that, I like Elgol?

It is a long drive from Staffin. All the way south to Broadford on the ‘main’ road. Then onto the single track road out to the west to Elgol. It’s around 55 miles and takes about one and a half hours. Going back it’s another 55 miles and another hour and a half because there is no alternative route. We stopped for petrol in Portree on the way down and drove down to just past Broadford where we stopped at Loch Cill Chriosd. A lovely quiet spot with beautiful views on a good day and today was a good day. There’s an old ruin of a church there, the Church of Kilchrist, but I was more interested in the landscape round the loch which is almost covered with rushes. On a day with little wind, the loch produces beautiful reflections. It was almost perfectly still today, although there was a shower of rain. Photos taken we pressed on to Elgol.

It was really busy. Cars and vans of the camper variety parked everywhere and anywhere. Scamp saw a likely place to park up near the village hall. There was one space left. Luckily we only had one car. She took some photos and then went to the village hall which had a tea shop beside it. I’d remembered my boots this time, so I headed down to the ‘beach’. As I’ve said before ‘beach’ is a misnomer. There’s no way you could erect your deck chair on this beach with rocks that are graded from fist sized stones to man sized boulders (or should that be ‘person sized?). However, those boulders didn’t stop a bridal party in suits and sticky-out white dress tying the knot beside the big eroded cliff! I was a bit peeved at first because that was one of the spots I wanted to photograph, but they were there first and I was only a nuisance photog who would have to be photoshopped out of their photos later.

The weather was jsut perfect and I got the photos I wanted with the equipment I wanted to use. I’d brought my old 10-20mm Sigma ultra-wide lens, fitted on the A6000 camera. It’s a really good lens that only works in manual these days, but I don’t mind that because it produces such good results. I’d brought the A7iii and kit lens as well, but having both meant I didn’t have to swap lenses. Someone had been thoughtful enough to sail a three masted sailing ship into position below one of the mountains as an extra little interest point.
After a while I’d taken all the photos I wanted and headed back up the steep hill to the tea shop where I thought Scamp would be waiting, but she was off on her own climbing a hill to another viewpoint, but had seen me and come back down again. I know now that we should have walked back up to the viewpoint, but honestly I was knackered with climbing that hill. A cup of tea helped and then we drove back those 55 miles to the house.

Earlier in the day we’d said goodbye to June and Ian who were off in the morning with Jackie to catch the bus that would take them down to Glasgow. I didn’t really envy them the trip, with their first, and only, stop in Fort William. Then the next half of the journey to Glasgow itself, then another bus to Cumbersheugh. In another way I did envy them the ability to just sit there in relative comfort instead of having to drive down the road. That’s what we’d have to do tomorrow.

We’d been invited to Jackie and Murdo’s for dinner. It was a reasonably comfortable night, so we just walked down to Burnside. I was cautious with my alcohol intake because I knew I was driving us home the next day. Scamp got the offer of a dress for the next wedding from Jackie, an offer she couldn’t or wouldn’t refuse, so we carried that back to the house later. We’d still a few things to pack, so with that done we went to bed, because tomorrow was going to be a long day.

PoD just had to be Elgol!

The only plan for tomorrow was to stop at Columba for a slice or two of the wedding cake, then drive, drive, drive.

Boots – 23 May 2022

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Today we climbed Quiraing. Not mountain climbed it, in the car, of course! Are you mad!

We drove up to see then fantastic new car park and it really was a totally different place from the one we used to know. No big boulders poking out of the hard packed earth. No mad foreigners (that includes english) parking anywhere they felt like it, which sometimes meant actually on the road. No, there is now a purpose built car park with plenty of room for everyone from normal folk to those who drive camper vans. There is a down side, of course. It’s no longer free. That didn’t seem to bother the folk who were filling up all those spaces. We didn’t stop. I’ve photographed the view from the top of Quiraing more times than I care to remember and it in all sorts of weather. No, today we were just being nosey!

We drove on to Uig and stopped at a viewpoint at the top. Just hard packed earth, but free. The whole of Uig bay was laid out below us. I took a few shots that I’d later merge into a panorama or two, then we faced the drop down into Uig proper and the tortuous hairpin in the middle of the drive. Came through unscathed and continued on to Portree. There’s nothing much to see in Uig apart from the ferry terminal to Lewis, or is it Harris? I can never remember.

We were heading to Elgol and its strange eroded rock face at the north end of what is laughingly called a beach. It’s really just a jumble of boulders from ones the size of your fist to massive ones the size of a small car. On a good day there are great views of the Cuillins. But not today. The weather was fine, in fact it was nearly perfect with white clouds in a blue sky, but unfortunately, just before we reached Sligachan, I discovered I’d not brought my walking boots. The thought of climbing over those boulders in my shoes didn’t inspire me, so we stopped and I took a few shots of the Cuillins from the almost diametrically opposite direction. Mountins continuously being covered and uncovered with cloud and with rain showers washing across them. It wasn’t Elgol, but it would do. We turned and drove back to Portree, bought some expensive petrol (£1.71 per litre) and went to Jans Vans for lunch, a hard brush for Scamp and a chilli plant for me.

From there we drove up to Staffin and went down to the beach with its grey/black sand. That’s where today’s PoD came from. It’s a time exposure looking towards Flodigarry, using a 10 stop ND filter. I just knew you wanted to know that Jamie. Scamp hung around for a while, but then went back to sit in the car.

With a few shots in the bag and one I was sure would be PoD, I drove back to the house and we got ready for tonight’s family meal in Columba. There were eight of us being fed on Chicken or Pork or Veggie Haggis with potatoes and broccoli as side dishes. Lots of talk at the table and Scamp was interrogating Allan about the correct way to cook Jackfruit. I was impressed how much information he passed on, explaining the good and bad points of this strange vegetable that we’ve only recently discovered. A good night, even if Mairi wasn’t feeling like joining us.

We drove back to the house because June and Ian had some more preparations before they leave for home tomorrow.

It was a well filled day. Tomorrow we’re hoping to get to Elgol with boots!

Off to the big city – 19 May 2022

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Today we set off to visit the big city – Portree.

As usual on our first full day on the island, we set off on an anticlockwise tour of the island. The first half is the most scenic, hugging the east and north coast of the island on mostly single track roads. We met a few ‘Zoomers’ as usual. The ones who want to travel at 20mph to get a good view of the scenery, completely ignoring the signs that suggest that you use the passing places to allow faster travellers to pass you. They are just lazy or are so entranced by the views that they forget that other people behind them may need to catch a ferry, or be in a certain place by a certain time. Worse, though are the ones who own the road. They too ignore the passing places and just drive straight towards you and try to hustle you off ‘their’ road. They are the dangerous ones. We met both kinds today. We also met a herd of cattle, not ‘Highland’ cattle, just ordinary beasts with their calves running around their heels. Some tiny wee calves too. “Dog sized” was Scamp’s description and it was very true, they must have been fairly recently born.

We did the full circuit of the island and stopped at Jan’s Vans for lunch. It was extra busy today with many people walking round this hardware emporium holding buzzers that would call them when their table was ready. We didn’t have too long to wait until ours buzzed and we got seated at table 10. It was a 20 minute waiting time for food, but that didn’t bother us because we weren’t going anywhere in a hurry. I ordered “The Works” which is the middle sized All Day Breakfast. I’ve never been quite hungry enough for The Full Works. Maybe some day. Scamp, of course had Macaroni ’n’ Cheese with chips. We did have to wait about the full 20mins, but it was worth it. We followed it with coffee for me and peppermint tea for Scamp with two of the worst pineapple cakes I’ve ever had. Extra thick pastry base and a tiny teaspoon of pineapple and an equal amount of cream. Not good enough, Jan’s Vans!

Three German blokes asked a waitress for the wifi password while I was in the queue for the coffee. The girl rattled off the “TheRedBrickCafe” and was about to turn away when one asked her “Could we have that in English now?” Luckily she laughed and wrote it down for them. We forget just how quickly we speak in Scotland. There were three American ladies in front of me in the same queue, all asking questions: How hot is the chilli? Is the salad vegetarian or vegan? What kind of coffee do you use? Then a man sidled up and I thought he was going to jump the queue, but in a mid-western drawl he said “I hope you don’t mind, I’m with them.” pointing to the ladies. I said Ok, I’d trust him … this time. He half smiled and said “I have to authenticate”, and showed me his credit card. He was paying!

After we left with a couple of new cups and two microwave safe bowl for breakfast, we went to the Co-op and then home by the usual east side road. Stopping at Staffin Slip to check out the new hardcore that’s been added to the slip to provide a base for a new terminal there. Took a few photos there, but there are so many mobile homes parked there now, it’s difficult to get a clear landscape view. Driving back to the house, we caught a glimpse of the marquee that’s been erected for Saturday.

June and Ian arrived tonight after having had dinner with Jackie and Murdo. Scamp and Jackie had a long discussion about dresses and fascinators an combination fascinators and hats. Strange concoction!

Later Mairi who owns the house dropped in with a cake and some fresh eggs. Again we sat and talked. When she left, I took the two Sonys out and got today’s PoD.

Not sure what’s happening tomorrow. No firm plans made.

Emptying bags – 18 May 2022

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There’s not much you can say about driving 250ish miles with a couple of stops.

Actually it was a fairly pleasant drive up through the west highlands to Fort William where we stopped for lunch and essentials like beer, wine and prosecco, and also to take on some really expensive petrol. Not the most expensive petrol we saw, because further on in our journey at Loch Cluanie we found an out of the way hotel with petrol on sale for £1.99 per litre!

We passed Eilean Donan Castle, but didn’t stop although a lot of folk did pause to photograph the biscuit tin castle that isn’t nearly as old as it looks. No, we went on over the bridge which has lost some of its elegance with a new conveyer belt stretching out to a deep water mooring for ships to take on what looks like gravel from an excavation. Such a pity. I’d still photograph it if the light was right and then just photoshop out the offending structure. We made our second stop near Loch Ainort to photograph the falls. They weren’t as impressive as they sometimes are, but it wasn’t raining and there was the opportunity to get the camera out of the bag and I wasn’t going to pass up on the chance! It’s a long time, and many cameras ago, since I last took pictures of them. That became PoD.

We didn’t bother to stop in Portree, but carried on to Digg and pulled up at Jackie and Murdo’s house around 5.30pm. Not a bad time after leaving home about 10.45am. A cup of coffee in the house and time for Scamp and her sister to catch up on preparations for Jaki’s wedding. Just a quick stop to break our journey before we drove to the cottage. Our holiday home for a week.

Just had time to start unpacking all those bags and then we walked down to J&M’s, which is barely 200m from the cottage, for dinner. After dinner and after Murdo had shooed off his brother and his sister in law, we sat in the living room, me with a glass of very nice Johnnie Walker Black Label and Scamp and sister with a G ’n’ T, while Murdo took up station in the kitchen watching Rangers ultimately lose the championship 5-4 on penalties. Such a terrible way to lose. We spoke to Mairi later and she had us in stitches with her stories of the bride and the bridesmaids antics getting a spray tan for the wedding. A spray tan in Skye?

We left later and made our way back to the cottage, were I’m writing this.

Tomorrow we may make our usual journey round the top of the island and down to Portree. The big city!

 

Back in the saddle – 11 January 2022

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After yesterday’s little hissy fit, I’ve returned to the 365 proper.

It does get difficult sometimes to keep finding interesting subjects to photograph, but it’s important to remember the associated benefits. It gets me out in the fresh air, although it also ensures that I spend more time than I should in post processing. It keeps the little grey cells working and when I do get a good photo, or find something I thought I’d lost, like today, it does feel good.

The day didn’t start well. We went to a funeral for a girl I don’t remember meeting. She was the daughter-in-law of one of Scamp’s oldest friends. Funerals are never pleasant occasions, but when it’s for someone with her whole life still to live, it’s worse than normal. That’s all I’m going to say, except I have never seen the chapel at Daldowie as full as it was this morning.

Drove home in blinding sunshine and got on with the day. The sunshine mellowed a bit as the day progressed, but there was still blue sky up there and there was directional light. I took a camera for a walk, while Scamp stayed home and read. I was framing a shot through some trees when I thought I saw a ladybird on a tree beyond my framed shot. It was indeed an orange ladybird with white spots. Possibly the one I’ve been looking for since about November. It was still tucked up neatly in a knot in the trunk. This time I know which tree to look for. It’s the one two trees east of the one with the stick. You’ll know it when you see it, well, you won’t but I will.

That ladybird changed the complexion of the day completely. Unfortunately, none of the photos I took did it justice, so it didn’t get PoD. That award went to an orange coloured leaf, beautifully textured and almost translucent when seen against the light. There is another photo on Flickr that I worked on a tiny little bit tonight. It dates from September 2005, over sixteen years ago! It’s worth a look.

Scamp made Carrot and Lentil Curry tonight. It’s not he hottest curry in the world, but what it lacks in heat, it makes up for in taste. An old favourite.

I don’t think it’s going to be as good a day weatherwise tomorrow, but we may go out again for a spin. Need to get a wall calendar some time soon!

How are the mighty fallen – 13 March 2019

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Unlucky 13th?  It didn’t affect me, for once, well it did, but only marginally.

We drove in to Glasgow after lunch to show off our new-found confidence in Quickstep. They do say that pride comes before a fall or as the Bible has it: “Pride goes before destruction, a haughty spirit before a fall.” Either way, that’s what happened. Michael, as usual picked us up on a few little things we were doing wrong in Jive, then proceeded to tell us we weren’t doing one of the moves correctly. That might have because you hadn’t taught us it yet, Michael! It’s no use arguing with him, because he uses his deafness as a shield and just ignores complaints. I’m not convinced he is as deaf as he makes out. I’m going to get him one of those ear shaped erasers from CassArt and give it to him as a present. Rubber Ear indeed.

Anyway, we survived Jive and also the ridiculousness of Rumba and Cha-Cha which start on beat 2. Whoever decided that was lacking in the numerical department. We waited impatiently for the Quickstep music to start because we knew we’d ace it after two hours of practise between Friday and Saturday. It was a disaster. For once it wasn’t me making the biggest mistakes, Scamp just couldn’t put a foot right. Now I know how she feels when I screw things up. A cup of coffee in Nero made things better. Drove home and Scamp made the dinner, but managed to drop her fried egg on the floor. Maybe she should have had a Large coffee in Nero!

Drove in to Glasgow for the 6.30 class. CITRAC claimed the time from Cumbersheugh to Glasgow Airport was 42mins (on a good night it’s less than 20). It looked like the motorway was going to be a carpark again. Fifteen minutes later we were in the STUC building. Why have a display system like CITRAC if it’s totally inaccurate? Anyway, the 6.30 class was great fun as was the 7.30 class, but as it is closing soon, the numbers were low, although the spirits were not! Maybe it was that, or a footbath to ease her feet, or maybe it was a stiff G ’n’ T that put the smile back on her face, but whatever it was, she’s gone off to her bed looking a lot more like herself.

Today’s PoD was taken outside the GOMA this afternoon. I think this one is much better.  It was taken near Duntulm on Skye last Saturday.

Tomorrow is a tying up loose ends day, I hope.